Recently in Pacific NW Category

A few weeks ago I finished a one week photography workshop put on by Jay Maisel (of Spring Street in New York City) within the parameters of the venue offered by Vancouver Workshops in British Columbia, Canada.  Jay still has me framing photos better in my mind.  I am grateful for that.  It was a week outside the envelope of my experience.  I need that too.  I have learned from that as it grinds against what is easy.

Vancouver offers a lot of easy shots for photography, not the least of which is Stanley Park on the western edge of the metropolis.  Here is my favorite sunset of the trip by the restaurant, Sequoia Grill (highly recommended).  I have posted some photos at this link.  Steve Ginn also posted his travel log here.  My thanks to Chris Ogden for organizing this trip, it was a superb learning experience.

Day 10:  Tofino to Bellingham, Washington with a stop in Victoria, B.C.  Click here for the Google Map of Day 10.

The image from our breakfast table summed up much of the rest of the day.  However earlier, we even had a peek of sunlight from beneath the incoming clouds.  It was a long day of driving, 305 miles to be exact.  This is a Google Map link, first be sure to zoom OUT, or navigate with the location window on the lower right.   Google Maps Help is here on this link.

We made a rendezvous in Victoria with our fearless leader from the Quark Expedition trip, Jaclyn McPhadden.  It was so out of context with the rough and tumble Zodiac driver that I had included in my daily videos (soon to be edited!) virtually everyday from down SOUTH... that I for a moment felt out of place in the lux bar at Laurel Point Inn overlooking the very civilized and CLEAN harbor of Victoria.  I wasn't in Right Whale Bay anymore... but for a moment, my thoughts flashed 9000 miles away, and I was there again.  In a heart beat I was ready to  be lectured about where not to go, what not to step in or on, and what not to leave behind.  It was great to see her again and she was most gracious to Steve and I in our very short visit.  I learned that Quark Expeditions had been sold to First Choice Holidays PLC (a public company).  She was undecided on their offer to go on the circumpolar navigation this fall aboard the ice breaker, KAPITAN KHLEBNIKOV.  I hope that she can fulfill all of her life's goals and still work for Quark.  She really made the trip south to the Falkland Islands, South Georgia, and Antarctica, fun and exciting.  She certainly proved to us that she is an asset to the company.

Steve and I parted Victoria for our 7pm reservation aboard the SPIRIT OF VANCOUVER and the drive down to the USA.  We arrived pretty tired about 10pm in Bellingham, Washington.

DAY 11:  Homeward bound.  Today we covered the last miles, 302 of them to Steve's house in Beaverton, Oregon.  The Google Map for Day 11 is here.  It rained almost the entire day.  After a brief stop in Seattle to say hello to my sister we were off on the road again.  Trying to finish the day before sunset.

As we crossed the bridge in Portland we saw our first blue sky... and by the time we reached Steve's home, we were somewhat in dappled sun.  A nice end to a fun trip of exploration.  My thanks to Steve.  Except for some serious packing, I think we are ready for Iceland.  At least now I know what I need before we depart.  Thanks for joining us.

The best is yet to come.

Cheers, Rusty

ps. I have added links to daily maps and some new images to many of the pages.  Video clips will follow soon.

We left Port Alberni this morning about 9am for the drive to Ucluelet.  This was finally, more or less off the grid for the GPS insofar as restaurants or lodging.  It did have the roads, but few names to them at this point. However, it should... the place is hopping with people.  We had a late breakfast/early lunch in Ucluelet, then proceeded to Tofino.  Ultimately to stay at the Long Beach Lodge Resort near Tofino.  This was a splurge for our coastal journey, but this was the end of the road, and the last stay going north.  The room is very nice, but not world class.  Smallish was my first impression, but well executed.  The shower should just be ripped out and re-installed anew however. 

I am typing this from the bar at the hotel (photo at the right was taken moments ago with my view out the window!), it is pouring rain outside so we are dining here at the hotel.  Which looks very nice in any event.  On the left is the GPS track in more detail of where we are on the coast.

We wandered down through the coast of the Pacific Rim National Park, stopping at a beach for an 800 m. walk near the interpretive center.  I stuffed the XH-A1 Canon camcorder into the Porter Brace rain slicker and ventured forth into the downpour.  Obviously on this web log none of these photos/videos have been shared or even looked at by me yet.  In fact most of the photos have been taken with my Canon SD 800 IS.  This one on the right was from the beach.  The piece of wood was about 3" long.  Nature carved it, not me! (promise).  And the last two, on the left, I took in the garden of the Visitor Center for the Park.  The Google Map for Day 9 is here.

Tomorrow we'll head to Victoria and rendezvous with Jaclyn, the expedition leader of out Quark Expeditions trip to Antarctica last February.  Then we'll be on the ferry to the mainland at 7pm.

Dinner at the restaurant in the Long Beach Lodge Resort was delicious, albeit slow, really slow.  However the manager paid for our dessert and cordials at the end which left us in a happy but still sated state.  It is a lovely resort and restaurant, I shall return.  Even the chefs were a jovial crew.

Early mornings in the Pacific NW have a heavy moisture laden smell thick with sap and salty air.  It was great to be on a dock again, and about to head west.   I actually made the trip from Port Alberni, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada to Bamfield (the promotion map is here) aboard the MV FRANCES BARKLEY.  Departing at 8am, just stepping aboard was moving back a half century in marine transportation.  The rhythmic sound of the slow churning diesel was somehow soothing in its continuity.  You knew it was not going to stop.

The FRANCES BARKLEY stopped for all sorts of deliveries, small and large.  Some were just propane tanks the size of a BBQ unit, others were large loads of lumber and other materials.  All, mostly, unloaded neatly onto docks. I say "mostly" as I thought for a moment one slightly off balance load of wood was going to sink the end of a dock when the crane let it loose.  Only about 30 people inhabit Kildonan year round.  Even the dog was excited when the mail came.  We made all sorts of house calls here before making our final stop in Bamfield.

My GPS tracked our every move, and since we were largely off the map (mine mostly has road details) I didn't know quite what I was going to get.  However, imported into Google Earth it gave aerial details that early explorers could only have imagined, but certainly never believed possible.  Here is an overall view of our journey, and one detail where we are walking down the boardwalk in Bamfield to Judy's Boardwalk Bistro.  The wild salmon burgers are highly recommended, and the "box" of wine was drinkable and had that "fresh" feel to the palate.  Here is Steve on the right as we headed back towards the boardwalk and the ship for our 2pm departure.

Steve and I traveled 87 miles yesterday, just under 80 of which was aboard ship.  Click here for the Google Map of Day 8. It was a nice change of pace.  No whales, but one bear and a few bald eagles were sighted.  I got a bit of each on HD video.

After dinner at the Clam Bucket in Port Alberni we decided to head to Tofino tomorrow.

The Lake Crescent Lodge last evening was picture postcard perfect.  The rooms were a little old, but what a location.... it's all about the location.  I highly recommend the eggs benedict for breakfast.    The Lodge had only opened on May 11th so we were happy it was the start of the season and we could get a room without problem.  I am sure folks from Seattle flock to this place.  It's worth the stop.

Here is our "route map" from the GPS today.  We lined up for the MV COHO ferry about noon for the 2pm departure.  It's a nice, average ferry, nothing but the basics.  Certainly this was true of the on board coffee shop where we grabbed some pre-made sandwiches and hermetically sealed apple pie.  The latter was better than the sandwiches believe it or not.  Pulling into Victoria the ferry seemed to dodge the float planes that were taking off from the bay.  I know this was not the case, but we were that close to them.  We covered 172 miles today, mostly not lost.  The GPS (Garmin 60CSx) may be the best thing we brought on this trip.  Steve has long ago turned his GPS off and relied on this one.  It seems to know every street in North America. Click here for the Google Map of Day 7.  These map tracks are all derived from data in the Garmin GPS. 

The end of the road is at the "Hospitality Inn" in Port Alberni.  I had called on the cell phone (short) to the visitor information center in Port Alberni to find about schedules, places to stay and eat.  Through this call we found LITTLE BAVARIA restaurant on 4th Street.  Outside it appeared to us to be closed, but inside it was buzzing with activity.  However I think they locked the door behind us.  Highly recommended.

We'll be here in Port Alberni two nights as we are taking the 1937 vintage vessel, LADY ROSE, to Bamfield tomorrow.  We leave at 8am, so I am short on time again.  I will catch up on this log soon.  The need is huge to get better at this since we'll soon be in Iceland going even faster to places whose names we can barely speak, let alone spell.

I have lots of unseen HD video to go with all of this... so hang on. - rj.

We left Astoria, Oregon after a quick stop at Radio Shack for a new electrical inverter to power the on-the-road-hardware.  So far, so good, no funny smells or hot wires.  However we check frequently to make sure that it's working as planned.  Yes, we even checked the voltage output.  Then we headed north... 271 miles total for the day (click here for the Google Map of day 6), but the first stop was at the Hoh Rain Forest on the west side of Olympic National Park.  It was the driest rain forest either of us had seen in some time.  A bit disappointing.

Lunch at the Lake Quinault Lodge in the Roosevelt Room.  I shot some HDV footage there, and would be happy to return for a longer visit. Pressing north again we slowed for little else until we came to Crescent Lake and finally after wrapping around the boundary of the lake, to the Crescent Lake Lodge.  Both Steve and I remarked that this lake looked very similar to the lakes surrounding Bariloche, Argentina.  I thought it reminded me of may Swiss lakes I had seen, steep sides, small cabins and a generally very tranquil ambiance.  A glass of wine on the terrace at sunset was extraordinarly.

Meanwhile... I'll update this further later on... it is now May 16th, and we are heading to the ferry for Victoria in Port Angeles, Washington.  We're not paddling in the Lake Crescent Lodge's boats.

 

We had a great day starting off with a 5.2 miles hike out the CAPE LOOKOUT trail.  The CAPE juts out into the Pacific about 2 miles I think.  We started off at about 850 ft. elevation and ended 400 feet above the sea.  It was spectacular.  A footfall from the edge of human existence.  I'll have a lot of HD video on this when I return.  Click here for the Google Map of Day 5.

It's a mental translation that one goes through from the parking lot to the end of the trail.  Civilization is left behind, and with each foot step by the 600+ foot cliffs, I at least am aware of the fine line between life and death, the observation of beauty and the intimate participation in it (for a few seconds).  It was a lovely path.  One full of appreciation.  It's full of green living things and other darker ones.  It is largely untouched by humanity save for the path. One can feel this there.  Smell it... and hear it.  I captured some wonderful sounds here with moving images.

A well earned lunch followed at Roseanna's Cafe in Oceanside.  The multi-berry cobbler with ice cream is a good choice after the paninni too.

We spent the night at Steve's sister and brother-in-law's home.  I most gracious and unexpected stay.  We had a wonderful dinner at the CANNERY CAFE in Astoria, Oregon.  I had salmon cakes that were just sublime (thank you Jim!).

We are making progress, things are failing or not working at all.  Good primers for isolated cold adventures (for the equipment anyway, it might not come back).  The electrical inverter we were using in the geek-ed out car seemed to start smelling funny... this calls for a right right to the shoulder of the road, ripping wires out of the things that are plugged into it... sniffing a lot... then deciding to stop for the day and have a beer.  After applying the volt meter to the suspected inverter to confirm it's terminal demise that had been foretold by the aroma it emitted.

We covered 142 miles today (click here for the Google Map of Day 4) after yet another late start, but we had a beautiful sunny day for the most part.  Many vistas called for stops, turn after turn.  We even stopped at Sea Lion Caves, where I distinctly recalled going with my father in 1969.  This was my first chance to use the Canon XH-A1 in very low light conditions.  Much of what I saw in the LCD screen I could NOT see with my naked eyes.  I was delighted.  We'll hope the video shows as well and exceeds my expectations.

A nice art-deco bridge over the river at Waldport, Oregon.  It's US 101, and before I-5 it was the main route to get north and south.  In 1969 I was on US 101 for 1100 miles of my 4000 mile drive back from Alaska.

We stopped for the night in Lincoln City, Oregon after a little dance on the beach for me.  A very good day, lots of video again.  This time with close attention to the shotgun microphone and ear buds.

Keep on swingin' - Rusty

Yesterday was 92 miles of intense interrogation of the coastal zone from Bandon, Oregon to Coos Bay, where we stayed for the night.  I was last here most definitely in 1969.  I put an image on the right to give an idea of where we are along the coast (see the blue flag in the lower left).  We're headed for that area west of Seattle.

We definitely were not lost at any time.  In fact we knew so precisely where we were it was a bit funny (click here for the map of Day 3).  The reason for this is to LINK the GPS data to the image files.  That is to embed the location data/time exactly into the image so which hand notation a record can be made of WHERE the shot was taken.  This becomes a factor when one is taking hundreds of photos a day from various locations.  The workflow to record this information is almost eliminated.

This area once was booming with all the activities related to logging and timber  operations, as well as fishing.  Now both are substantially in decline and tourism has replaced the former natural resources as the economic engine.  Certainly the timber and fishing both survive, but not in the fashion of the past.  We had lunch in Charleston, Oregon, a quiet little suburb of Coos Bay (pop. 16,000). Then headed north again searching for sand dunes, which are extensive along this coast, but not, so far, in the variety we are seeking.  Ones with no vegetation and no dune buggies roaring over them. 

The bridge over US 101 was in my memory from long ago.  I have a short video here from our passage (taken with my Canon SD800).  The video is here if you have a problem:

http://www.terra360.com/movies/101bridge.html

So... on the road again.  More as it happens.

May 10-11th

It seems somehow oddly appropriate that I am again this day in Portland, Oregon.  I was only here last July for a conference on Adobe Photoshop.  It is different this time.  My friend Steve, whom I met on the trip south in February, met me at the airport yesterday to jump start our 12 day adventure, driving the Pacific coast from the northern tip of California to Tofino, British Columbia, Canada.  It is a practice really.  We have both done parts of this coast at various times in our past, but it is a good place to test new equipment and old for a similar time in ICELAND.  We leave June 21st and return July 6th.

We have already covered almost 500 miles so I am playing catchup with this message posting.  Here are interactive Google Maps of Day 1 and Day 2.  Zoom out when you initially open these to see the full drive.  They are VERY detailed.

Most of this area I have not seen since 1968 driving to Alaska from southern California.  The population has definitely grown in human terms.  Sleepy towns, some now lined with million dollar townhouses.  However we have found some parts that seem unchanged in the country side, green and comfortable for the furry lamas and well insulated sheep in the fields.  At 53 degrees with a stiff wind in places, we need to be well insulated too.

We stopped briefly at Port Orford, Oregon where they are somewhat unique in the fact that all of the vessels are hauled out of the water each day.  The boats are built to accommodate this activity with reinforced steel straps around their girth.  Here you can see them all lined up for the night.

I have been busy learning how to use my Canon XH-A1 high definition camcorder, now mounted on a Steadicam Merlin... its a huge learning experience in itself.  So far, just getting it balanced has been a feat, and I need to go to the gym to keep my arm in shape for making it all glide.... uh, sorry "fly" as the "Merlin" name implies.  It really does just that "flying part", remarkably.

We'll head north again today for some new sights and hope the overcast will lift.  Briefly yesterday we has some patchy blue sky and sunlight.  I'll post some still photos later today.

Cheers, Rusty