This is National Novel Writing Month if you were unaware. I only learned of the event last night in late evening reading in Macworld (thank you Jason Snell).
I have signed up and will in the next day or so formulate my plan to
write 50,000 words by the end of the month. Since I am a novice at
this, I will base it loosely on a detailed log (hand written) that I
kept in 1977 of some time in the Caribbean on an old sailing vessel.
More details as I imagine them on that.
Update: November 1, 2008. I have now uploaded slightly less than half of all the images I took at the Livestrong Challenge ride. 428 in all. I have actually worked on all of them to some degree. Trust me, with a 400mm lens, and a 21.1 megapixel camera, I have seen more photographic details than I can recently recall.
Often I wonder why I like to travel. I examine, consciously, what it is that makes it work for me. It has changed in my experience over time, decades I mean, something to do with scale and contrast, light and dark, times that we are in now and times that are forgotten, or nearly so. When one leaves the comfort of familiar surroundings and are thrust into the world beyond your doorstep, possibilities exist for a greater chance of something unexpected happening. Seeing, smelling, tasting or otherwise sensing a new environment. We frame our plans around increasing the odds that what we will experience will match our expectations. Therein lies the trap that nature has laid for us.
The conundrum is to observe but not quite participate if the activity is not what we expect. However to truly observe, one must participate. This seems to me to be the fulfilling act of travel. To engage in the activity that intertwines and highlights differences with your own life experience is the plum of the event. The act of observation in and of itself often affects the outcome of an event. So we try to balance the expectation and the experience in our mind. What is really important? I think the answer is to accept the outcome of the travel experience for the plums it offers and not to twist it into something else (like what you had planned). Sharing journeys, written, spoken or photographed (or all) helps others to reach a value in their own planning. With each iteration the act of travel gets closer to the "planned" experience. Which of course, if the journey is truly an "expedition" then it's purpose has little chance of occurring at all. I think I prefer the term exploratory.
My friend Pam and I left Austin, Texas late morning on August 13th, 2008 for New York City and onward to St. John's, Newfoundland, Canada. My expectations were high, and that was in part to see as much of Newfoundland & Nova Scotia as one could via ship and some land excursions given a lot of time constraints by the published itinerary. I also wanted to know about Silversea and it's new "expedition" ship, the PRINCE ALBERT II. I am interested in the other places she is going as well. What I learned in the process, is what I learned on my trip to Iceland last summer, to accomplish an intimate observation of the large island land masses of the Canadian Maritimes, will require a return trip and slower methods.
We arrived in St. John's on the evening of August 13th. Well it was actually 12:14 a.m. August 14th when we were finally exiting the airport. My new friend, Terry Adey, was there to greet us. A charming and talented photographer during the day, and a registered nurse by night. He drove us to Signal Hill to the the flickering lights of St. John's harbor, then on to the Balmoral Inn (38 Queens Road). After some sleep we were off for a walk and then met Terry and his wife Debbie for lunch and a tour of the environs. I cannot thank Terry enough for his warm welcome and help. On a future trip I am sure we'll have a lot of photography to share.
We pulled into Halifax in the early morning where I spied Harlan Crow's yacht, MICHAELA ROSE, stern to at the wharf. We tied up a short distance away, then boarded buses for Halls Harbor on the north side of Nova Scotia along the shores of the Bay of Fundy where the tides range up to 40 feet or more. First was a quick stop in the old part of Halifax to visit the cemetery where many of the TITANIC victims were buried. An odd tourist site for any "expedition." We also were able to squeeze in a 45 minute stop at the maritime museum that was quite interesting. In a whirlwind of bus riders we were headed north to the Grand Pre winery and a tasting. Perhaps with time and a bit more global warming their grapes will catch up with Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California. Meanwhile, this slowed us down so much that we had a VERY late fresh lobster lunch at 3 p.m. in Halls Harbor. Time enough to see the water rise during lunch and refloat the harbor boats. A nice tour for what we did although they tried to micro manage the passengers to the level of telling them how to cross the street. I bolted again. Back in Halifax at about 5:45 p.m. we were told that the maritime museum would be open until 8 p.m. Sadly it was only open until 5:30 p.m. and most everything else was closing rapidly. Why we stayed in port for several more hours remains a mystery to me. One hightlight of the departure was the bag piper and drummer that serenaded us. They were absolutely outstanding. I have it all on HD video.
Some side notes: our new friends, Fred and Julia, who were a deck above us in Cabin 411 (Silversea calls them "suites" but with only one room, again, it is a bit of a linguistic stretch) and HAD NO AIR CONDITIONING - THE ENTIRE TRIP. The only solution by the Silversea staff was to give them a fan, and after complaining for days.... they got a second fan. I think they could have fixed this almost immediately by switching their cabin with one of the staff members. Several of whom I know were in cabins comparable to ours, a less expensive class from the forth deck, but nonetheless cool and comfortable. I hope that Silversea makes some reparations with Fred. If they do not, I will make some contract changes on any future voyages with Silversea. It should also be known that Silversea allows smoking in the cabins. A door away from Fred was a smoker who has his door cracked open as was polluting the hallway and their non-ventilated room. I felt terrible for Fred and Julia with the inaction of the staff and Silversea headquarters.
There was also a pot smoker from time to time somewhere in deck three down the hall from our cabin 313. I never identified exactly where, but the aroma was very strong and distinct.
On deck five, there was one "suite" (and up here it really might have been one) that was overwhelmed with the odor of the head (the toilet to landlubbers). Little was done to fix this situation either.
There is also a pay as you go ($0.50/minute), or package deal, on Internet service. It was amazingly reliable and fast, probably twice the speed of a 56 kbps dial up line at its best. I purchased a block of 250 minutes time for $85 and by typing mostly off line and then cutting/pasting my messages I was usually off in 4-6 minutes. I could log into my accounts when and where I wanted, respond to emails, upload photos/comments to my blog.... even look out the side window of our house with a live web cam WHILE WE WERE AT SEA. This was pretty amazing. I ended the whole trip with 30 minutes left over that I never used (no refunds). Some people complained about the service but they were using the computers in the "internet cafe" in the library. I was always using my own notebook and logging on wirelessly from anywhere on the ship. Geeky stuff and it worked. Also while I am on telecommunications, the AT&T cell service works with Silversea. Once one has international roaming, taxes and fees make each minute cost about $3.50. We never did use it, but I know it works from observing others. I never could get Skype to show a connected signal on the internet connection or I would have tried a Skype VoIP call from the ship ($0.02/min usually, plus the internet connection fee of about $0.35). Anyhow, I would suspect that this sort of thing could work, but perhaps they block those ports so AT&T can keep the monopoly while onboard the ship.
Cheers, Rj.
September 3, 2008
in Austin, Texas.
P.S. Septermber 14th I added a ZIP file off all the Google Earth KML files with the tracks of the ship, hikes, drives, etc. Download it here.
I have new life long friends from Los Angeles and Kansas City. Who would have known. It's just the way the stars aligned.
More from Halifax where we will have an all day tour across the island and an evening in Halifax to catch up before leaving for Lunenberg, Nova Scotia.
My first update since arriving in St. John's, Newfoundland. Upon arriving at the St. John's airport non-stop from Newark, New Jersey on Friday night we have had a lovely welcome to this maritime province. Terry Adey who lives and works in the St. John's - Twillingate area was there to greet us just after midnight. We did a quick tour around town in the early Saturday morning hours, even venturing to the top of Signal Hill for a splendid night time panoramic view of St. John's. Signal Hill was the place where Marconi received his first transmissions across the Atlantic.
The two nights in St. John's were at the Balmoral Inn (38 Queens Road). It has a nice self serve cold breakfast available most of the morning, comfortable rooms albeit with a small bath. The biggest drawback is the necessity of moving almost 200 lbs of luggage (video & still camera gear is more than 60% of this) up almost two full flights of stairs. However I survived and it was an altogether pleasant stay.
Terry and his wife Debbie were exceeding gracious hosts and tour guides on the Saturday before departure. Cape Spear, the village of Quidi Vidi, the Battery along with harbor front... all wonderful walks on a picture perfect day. I'll annotate these days more when I am not uploading posts via satellite and can add more pictures & text easily.
We boarded the Prince Albert II about 1pm on Friday. St. John's is in the Newfoundland time zone, and it is 1.5 hrs ahead of Eastern Time.... so 2.5 hrs ahead of Texas time. The night before boarding it has rained for about 10 hours and for sure the weather pattern was changing. Once upon the ship the 3pm sailing was pushed back to 8:00 pm due to the wind, and sadly our first destination, L'anse aux Meadows, was cancelled due to the high wind and north swell bearing down on our planned course. Plan B was to turn south and do some of the itinerary in reverse. The small port of Argentia and some historic ruins there, then then Ramea Islands followed by Gros Morne National Park in the north, and finally returning south to the French islands of St. Pierre and Miquelon before resuming our original schedule toward Nova Scotia and eventually New York City on August 25th.
The photo is of port side in Argentia of the ship and one of her moorings.
Written at noon, Sunday, August 17th, 2008.

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